Mulberry whimsy, abstract Ilincic end London Fashion Week

LONDON Tue Sep 18, 2012 12:59pm EDT

A model presents a creation from the Mulberry Spring/Summer 2013 collection at London Fashion Week September 18, 2012. REUTERS/Suzanne Plunkett

A model presents a creation from the Mulberry Spring/Summer 2013 collection at London Fashion Week September 18, 2012.

Credit: Reuters/Suzanne Plunkett

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LONDON (Reuters) - London served up a thick slice of cute, abstract and surreal themes on Tuesday to end its reign on the fashion calendar with the Mulberry, Roksanda Ilincic and Meadham Kirchhoff shows.

British brand Mulberry, famously known for its covetable bags, offered up a collection of sorbet-colored and floral-inspired outfits on the last day of London Fashion Week's spring/summer 2013 shows.

The collection saw Mulberry go back to its roots, taking inspiration from the rich florals of the English countryside, displaying clothes in delicate shades of peach, mint, and cream, embellished with detailed floral motifs.

Creative director Emma Hill revamped a 1970s silhouette using flowing dresses with low backs and tailored jackets, but introduced a sexy edge with bonded leather.

Outerwear was inspired by English country heritage, with models in military peacoats and boxy biker jackets over evening dresses in tan and black leather. Navy prints and jacquard textures, added the whimsical twist that the brand has become known for.

As always, all eyes were on the accessories as Mulberry debuted its Willow collection of bags and clutches, centered around a tote bag with floral prints and detailed petals added to Mulberry's signature postman lock.

"It's a great British brand. It's timeless pieces that just go with everything. There's such a variety of colors and styles, it's a brand that I just really love," British Olympic heptathlon champion Jessica Ennis told Reuters from the front row of the catwalk.

The show was held at London's Claridges Ballroom, which had been transformed into an English country garden, with pastel-colored garden gnomes and wheelbarrows dotted around, accompanied by lush floral hangings. Guests were treated to slices of angel cake and fruit juices.

ILINCIC

Designer Roksanda Ilincic offered a more abstract-inspired collection of elegant day dresses, skirts, and blouses with a modern graphic feel in the grand setting of the Savoy Hotel.

Sherbet lemons, burnt tangerines, and dusky pinks were paired with crisp whites, pale greys and cobalt blues to provide sharp color contrasts across the designer's spring/summer 2013 line.

Colorful tweed dresses, soft jersey maxi skirts and cute neck ties also featured, along with delicate ruffled details, chic cardigans and knitted pencils skirts.

Ilincic told Reuters she was inspired the work of two artists, Niki de Sainte Phalle and Josef Albers for her latest collection, comparing the differences between their work and their personalities.

"Like feminine and masculine, sportswear with eveningwear, something luxurious with something quite accessible and everyday, and it was a combination of everything really."

The designer said she liked to mix different things to create interesting opposites taking the color palette from Albers and the shapes of the clothes from Sainte Phalle.

"The color palette came from Josef Albers, and he's known for his minimal color combinations, which have lots of different shades of yellow, or white, honey color, mixed with black and blue," she added.

Meadham Kirchhoff presented a dramatically elaborate show entitled "A Cautionary Tale" which saw the catwalk decadently decorated with iced cakes, fresh floral bouquets and wallpapered screens printed with birds and flowers.

Models meandered down the runway in pieces adorned in rich textures and patterns, in hats or with flowers in their hair, and an abundance of ribbon and bows embellished over the majority of the collection.

Denim, satin, taffeta and tulle featured heavily across the line, as well as woven jacquards. Jackets, trousers and skirts were covered with ornate embroidery, beading and sequin detailing.

"I just wanted to create something that was really beautiful and only beautiful," designer Edward Meadham told Reuters after the show.

Meadham and his design partner Benjamin Kirchhoff, are famous for their highly creative and surreal shows and did not disappoint with a surreal production and their offering of flouncy patterned dresses, lace bloomers and plush full skirts paired with beaded trousers.

"It's all about make-believe, it's all about making people want to desire and I think that's kind of maybe a reflection as well on that," Kirchhoff told Reuters.

(Additional reporting by Piya Sinha-Roy, editing by Paul Casciato)

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