Dior celebrates 60 years in Versailles

By Marie Maitre

VERSAILLES, France (Reuters) - British designer John Galliano marked his 10th year at the creative helm of iconic fashion house Dior with an extravagant autumn/winter show in Versailles Palace inspired by Impressionist and Modern painters.

The fashion house, whose controversial creations helped build its fame, also celebrated its 60th anniversary with opulence that evoked the reign of "Sun King" Louis XIV, the 17th century monarch who transformed Versailles into a royal palace.

The fashion brand, cherished by the rich and famous, used the occasion to reflect on its evolution from Christian Dior's 1947 "New Look" to Galliano's theatrical dresses.

The Gibraltar-born designer paid tribute to both Dior and his Spanish roots in a 30-minute show where models, including Gisele Bundchen, Naomi Campbell, Amber Valetta and Linda Evangelista, strutted in dresses inspired by painters ranging from Cocteau and Picasso to Renoir, Degas and Goya.

Against a background of flamenco music, the models with ethereal faces powdered in white came to life like characters out of masterpieces such as Picasso's "Harlequin", or "La Gouloue", the Moulin Rouge dancer who inspired Toulouse-Lautrec.

"There's a close proximity in their talents. John has many creative talents that are close to those of Mr Dior himself and this is the reason why I chose him 10 years ago," said Bernard Arnault, head of LVMH which includes the Dior brand.

"They share the femininity and romanticism but also the modernity and extravagance ... Christian Dior was not classical at all in the 1950s. He was revolutionary. Today he looks classical. It is like Picasso," said Arnault.

SILENCE

Galliano attempted to silence those who say he has betrayed Christian Dior's spirit as he produced a stark knee-length white satin dress with a tight waist adorned with a big rose and narrow sleeves elegantly hugging the tip of the shoulders.

"Almost Famous" actress Kate Hudson applauded heartily as the last evening creation, a one-strap embroidered emerald bustier dress was presented before Galliano proudly marched on stage in a bullfighter suit, with his long hair hanging loose.

"I love him," said James Bond girl Eva Green, in a Dior-designed Chinese pink satin dress. "He has the Dior chic and on top of that a certain madness."

Galliano later changed into gypsy clothes and was cheered by flamenco guitar players and dancers at a ball thrown by LVMH in the candle-lit Orangery gardens, flanked by two 100-step staircases leading to the Palace.

Also present were film makers Pedro Almodovar and Sophia Coppola.

Christian Dior's first collection in 1947 introduced a sharply feminine silhouette with a nipped-in waist, opening on to a long-hemmed voluminous dress made with 20 meters of fabric, a style some critics deemed obscene after years of war shortages.

"I have designed flower women," Dior was quoted as saying of his style, which Harpers Bazaar reportedly coined "New Look."