(Adds show by Douglas Hannant)
By Ellen Wulfhorst
NEW YORK Feb 13 The myriad designs parading on
the runways of New York Fashion Week converged on one standout
style-savvy look for fall and winter 2013: the black jacket.
Ubiquitous in the latest collections, the jacket appeared
with a boxy silhouette, swingy lines or oversized shoulders, but
the black was non-negotiable. It was by far the dominant color
among the hundreds of fall and winter women's collections
unveiled by designers at the semi-annual extravaganza.
New York Fashion Week, which is followed by similar events
in London, Paris and Milan, concludes on Thursday with shows by
Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren.
In shows this week, the black jacket appeared tuxedo-style
with contrasting satin lapels, as a bolero, in edgy motorcycle
cuts, playfully cropped at the waist, as a tailored blazer, as a
blouson and with ruffles at the waist. Among designers
highlighting the piece were Nicole Miller, Yigal Azrouel and
The black jacket was paired with skirts, most of them
pleated or pencil, and trousers that veered between slim and
Fur was omnipresent - in narrow neck pieces, stoles, snoods
and wraps and adorning everything from anoraks to evening gowns.
Michael Kors, who showed his collection on Wednesday,
slashed and belted a black mink stole, and his models donned
over-sized fur hats with ear flaps.
Designer Carolina Herrera dyed fur wraps and collars in
eye-catching reds and greens. Douglas Hannant, who also showed
on Wednesday, trimmed a women's tuxedo with a mink collar.
"Furs are so prevalent, it's unbelievable," said David
Wolfe, creative director of The Doneger Group fashion
"It's luxury and drama and glamour, and it's escapism
because we're still not out of the economic woods," he said.
"This is kind of kidding yourself that everything is the way it
was in the '80s when times were good."
The fall and winter collections were unexpectedly lush, said
luxury consultant Robert Burke.
"It's not exactly a boom time period, but designers are
designing like it is," he said.
Evening wear featured rich textiles and heavy ornamentation,
especially in collections by Tadashi Shoji and Pamella Roland
who took inspiration from old St. Petersburg in Russia and Naeem
Khan who looked to 1920s Art Deco.
"If I'm a designer and I'm in a higher-end market, how do I
differentiate myself from fast fashion? It's the ornamentation,"
said retail consultant Tom Julian.
Leather made a strong showing - cut into lacy evening
dresses, folded into pleated trousers, trimmed into skinny
leggings and even feathered into hemline flounces. Shearling was
Layering played a big role. Designers put short jackets over
long shirts, letting the tails hang out the back, and brought
out plenty of vests, from biker to brocade, as well as hoods.
"I was intrigued by the hoodie that gets layered with the
cardigan that gets layered with the tunic that gets layered with
the slicker," said Julian.
Necklines were high. Turtlenecks were popular, as were
stand-up collars and bows tied at the front of the neck.
Accompanying all that black was gray, in versions dubbed
fog, smoke, slate, pewter, gun metal, charcoal, lead and
For those craving a bit of color, a dark red described
variously as oxblood, Bordeaux, Windsor wine, Merlot and
wineberry made a subtle appearance, as did deep greens described
as moss, malachite and viridian and purples named aubergine,
amethyst, amaranth and black plum.
"Women who pass on the bright color are going to bite on
these more sophisticated, darker, muted colors," said Wolfe.
(Additional reporting by Marguerita Choy, Editing by Cynthia
Osterman and Andrew Hay)