| NEW YORK
NEW YORK Feb 11 Designers livened up fall and
winter 2013 menswear at New York Fashion Week with a few
experimental touches in the otherwise staid world of men's
A bold show came from Duckie Brown, one of the hundreds of
designers showing at the official Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at
Manhattan's Lincoln Center and venues elsewhere in the city.
Fashion Week in New York, which ends on Thursday, is
followed by similar events in London, Paris and Milan.
Reversing the conventions of men's' layering, the Duckie
Brown line by New York-based designers Steven Cox and Daniel
Silver showed short jackets worn over longer coats or over-sized
knee-length sweatshirts, giving the illusion the models were
Coupled with dark wool trousers with deep inverted ankle
cuffs in burgundy or turquoise, the effect evoked the
traditional robe-like costume of a Himalayan kingdom.
In another challenge to convention, Duckie Brown showed
backward coats -- at the front, a blank facade of wool and at
the back, a fastening down to the ankles.
The designers also showed a bright indigo suit cut from
thick wool, so bulky and seemingly inflexible it brought to mind
a figure made of plastic Lego toy bricks.
Wool in its stoutest forms made its mark at the menswear
show by Joseph Abboud, whose creative director Bernada Rojo said
he was inspired by "the energy of the determined daredevils and
enterprising leaders who put a man on the moon."
Abboud offered a metallic, chainmail-like sweater and bulky
wool trousers in rich green, with ribbed patches at the knees,
utility pockets and thick elastic ankle cuffs looking like
refined versions of what an astronaut might wear as an
insulating layer underneath a spacesuit.
At DKNY's menswear, there were slim-fitting, single-breasted
two-button suits in gray, black and navy that might make a
decent impression on Wall Street.
"The palette is all New York," said notes accompanying the
DKNY's casual wear items were safe variations on a familiar
slouchy, urban theme -- sweaters, anoraks and bomber jackets in
muted greens, blues and grays, accessorized with black beanie
caps and no-nonsense black shoes.
Timo Weiland, a label by New York-based designers Weiland
and Alan Eckstein, took a similar mood and color scheme in a
cuter, more idiosyncratic direction.
Blazers were tweedy, in speckled wool. One outfit,
surprisingly successful, resembled a jacket thrown over a pair
of pajamas in a natty brown circle-patterned print. A blue
sweater bore a folksy image of a dachshund -- Eckstein owns one
-- across the chest.
Things were a little more rugged in the Nautica men's
collection, where accompanying notes for the show said the
season's clothes were inspired by the nautical expeditions of
Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton.
The collection added flourishes to Nautica's trademark naval
jackets and fisherman cable-knit sweaters. One parka featured
glowing colored lights woven into the edge of the hood.
Puffer jackets were cut in unusually exaggerated
silhouettes, bulky at the shoulders, tightly scooped in at the
waist and flaring back out at the thigh.
Nylon and wool utility-style pants fiercely hugged the
models' thighs and calves. Turtlenecks, as at Joseph Abboud,
were about as high as was practicable.
(Editing by Ellen Wulfhorst and David Gregorio)