By Dorene Internicola
NEW YORK, July 15 For archeologist and food
historian Paula Marcoux, the business of cooking begins as it
did almost two million years ago: with a fire and a stick.
From fish and meat to breads and vegetables, the 100-odd
recipes in Marcoux's first book, "Cooking with Fire," serve as a
how-to guide to often ancient and sometimes forgotten culinary
"The flavors are just so much better," said Marcoux, who
instructs readers in the use of sticks, spits, skewers and
grills as well as masonry ovens and coal beds.
"Even if it seems you're just boiling something, there's a
lot more that enters into the food when you're cooking with
fire," she said.
The 53-year-old, who lives in Plymouth, Massachusetts, spoke
about reclaiming the bygone pleasures of gathering around the
hearth, whether it is to bake bread in a wood-fired oven, slow
roast a pork loin on a homemade spit, or toast cheese in an
Q: Why did you write this book?
A: (Fire) is the basic element that cooked all our food
until recently, and it's gone away so quickly. I'm hoping to
give people confidence to try things out.
Q: Where do the recipes come from?
A: They're accumulated from all over the world, but really
represent the people I've run up against and the flavors I like.
Some are from friends and others I've made up. They are simply
in the service of helping people try these techniques.
Q: Does food taste better when cooked over an open fire?
A: The flavors are so much better. And it's celebratory,
collaborative and more of an experience than a meal. You cannot
help but bring in more people when you're cooking with fire.
Q: How can city dwellers begin to cook with fire?
A: You must know somebody who has a fireplace and you need
to cultivate that relationship. It's really hard to go back and
think of your fireplace as a decorative element of your home if
you're making a meal in it, even if it's just an appetizer. Also
some of these techniques can be done on a beach or in a park.
Q: What's easy for a beginner to try?
A: Put some kind of melting cheese on a long skewer and just
toast it like a marshmallow over the coals until it starts to
get nice and soft and gooey. Have a crusty slice of bread ready
to catch the drip, and some condiments like pickles or chutney
or a nice mustard. It's like making fondue on your own little
slice of bread.
Cream Scones (makes eight):
10 ounces unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 ½ ounces (5 tablespoons) lightly salted butter, cold
1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk
½ cup cream
½ cup currants, or other dried fruit chopped to the size of
1. Set up a griddle arrangement and get a fire going. You
may use something approximating a bakestone, but a 10-inch
cast-iron griddle or even a frying pan works fine, with low heat
under it. You can nestle a heavy pan into a bed of coals,
provided the heat is dampened with plenty of ash.
2. Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a
bowl or food processor. Cut or rub in the butter until the flour
looks like meal. In a separate bowl, beat the egg and yolk
together, then beat in the cream. Use a fork to lightly stir the
egg mix into the flour mixture, tossing in the currants as you
go. Scrape it up into a ball, but do not overwork.
3. Preheat your griddle.
4. Flour a work surface lightly and scrape the dough out
onto it. Pat it lightly into an even cake about 8 to 9 inches in
diameter. Use a bench knife or scraper to cut the scone into
eight wedge-shaped pieces, and transfer them to the hot griddle.
(If you hear any sizzling, situate the griddle in a cooler
location or spread out the coals or diminish the blaze under
it.) Bake for 10 to 15 minutes per side, peeking underneath to
monitor and turn when lovely and brown. Let cool several minutes
(Editing by Patricia Reaney and G Crosse)