PARIS, July 15 French restaurants microwaving
ready-made boeuf bourguignon and veal blanquette will now be
exposed by law, in a move the government hopes will preserve the
nation's culinary reputation.
A government decree issued on Tuesday requires restaurants
to identify meals prepared on their premises with a "homemade"
logo, showing that any other items are likely to have been
brought in and simply warmed up.
Any restaurant misusing the logo - a pan with a roof-shaped
lid - could be fined for the breach starting next year. The
legislation applies to all eateries and fast foods but also to
caterers and outdoor food stalls.
When the law was drafted a year ago, a survey by restaurant
federation Synhorcat had found that 31 percent of French
eateries admitted to using at least some ready-made dishes.
The government hopes the measure, the first of its kind in
Europe, will encourage restaurants to prepare their dishes from
scratch and spruce up the standing of French gastronomy.
But some critics argue that the new rules are so confusing
they will not meet their key objective: to give customers clear
information about the food they eat and how it was prepared.
They also say that health inspectors, already overstretched
from having to verify hygiene in restaurant kitchens, will
struggle to enforce the new rules without new staff.
Under the law, to earn a "homemade" label, dishes must be
made on the premises using "raw products" that have not been
heated or substantially altered before landing in a kitchen.
But there are many caveats, and homemade doesn't necessarily
mean fresh or lovingly chopped up in-house.
Products that are chilled, frozen, deep-frozen, vacuum
packed, peeled, sliced, cut, minced, chopped, boned, smoked and
salted can still be purchased from outside and used in a dish
without disqualifying it from being "homemade".
However French fries cannot be labelled "homemade" if they
are delivered frozen.
Ham, cheese, pasta, bread, puff pastry and stock for sauces
can still be purchased in bulk and earn a dish the label.
In some cases a restaurant may also be able to present a
dish which contains barred products as "homemade" as long as
they specify the brand of the product, or the name of the
producer, opening a loophole to bring in foods not made on site.
Restaurant federation UMIH acknowledged the logo only partly
addressed customers' calls for better information, but called it
"a first step" in promoting the savoir-faire of French cooks.
(Reporting by Natalie Huet and Chine Labbe; Editing by Raissa