Flay looks back through mellowed lens

NEW YORK (Reuters Life!) - Chef Bobby Flay, a native New Yorker who burst on to the culinary scene in 1991 with the launch of his restaurant Mesa Grill at the tender age of 25, says he has mellowed with age.

The author and TV chef, now 42, is known for his Southwestern dishes with their spicy, robust flavors. They often feature blends of chilies that achieve varying degrees of heat, smokiness and fruitiness on the same plate.

He has opened five more restaurants including two other Mesa Grills -- one in Las Vegas and one in the Bahamas -- and his seventh book, "Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill Cookbook", has just been released.

"This is a memoir of Mesa Grill," Flay said. "The restaurant just needed some time to grow before putting its recipes into a book."

Flay spoke to Reuters about his goals in and out of the kitchen -- including his political ambitions.

Q: How has Mesa Grill grown up?

A: "The food has gotten subtler and simpler. When the restaurant first opened there were a lot more components on the plate. Now the food has become much clearer. There's more clarity to it and more balance to it -- such as chili pepper enhancing rather than being the focus of a dish."

Q: How has Bobby Flay grown up?

A: "Hopefully I've matured a little bit. I look at the restaurant much differently now than back then. The restaurant has mellowed along with me."

Q: What do you think is your contribution to American cuisine?

A: "My contribution I hope is to get people to eat full-flavored food. If I could come away with that alone, that would be a fantastic accomplishment. I'm also very proud of being a very American chef. The food of America is some of the best in the world. I don't think it gets the credit it deserves."

Q: What more do you want to accomplish as a chef?

A: "I don't consider myself as someone who sets trends. I take a look at what people are interested in and I try to give people a version of that. So if people want to eat more comforting food, I can turn my attention to that. Of course I can do it with my style. I much rather follow the trail than to be a trailblazer."

Q: Outside of the kitchen, what would you like to accomplish?

A: "I have a couple of goals. With television, I love news and current events. I would love to be in news in some way and talk about things that are not just food. I'm a proud native New Yorker. After my restaurant career I would like to go into politics at some point to help the city."

QUESO FUNDIDO WITH ROASTED POBLANO VINAIGRETTE (Serves 4)

Ingredients

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 cup whole milk

3 cups grated Monterey Jack cheese (12 ounces)

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 ounces fresh goat cheese, cut into 8 slices

Roasted Poblano Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Fried blue and white corn tortilla strips, made with tortillas cut into 1-inch strips (make a double batch), or one 9-ounce bag good-quality tortilla chips

1. Preheat the broiler. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook for one minute. Whisk in the milk and cook until slightly thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the grated Monterey Jack cheese and season with the salt and pepper.

Scrape the mixture into an 8-inch cast-iron pan and place the slices of goat cheese over the top. Put the pan under the broiler and broil until the goat cheese is golden brown on top. Remove from the oven, drizzle with the poblano vinaigrette or spoon it over the top and sprinkle with the chopped cilantro. Serve with chips for dipping

ROASTED POBLANO VINAIGRETTE (makes about 3/4 cup)

2 poblano chilies, roasted, peeled, seeded, and chopped

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 clove garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon honey

1/4 cup canola oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine the poblanos, 2 tablespoons cold water, the vinegar, garlic, honey, canola oil, and salt and pepper in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. This can be made up to eight hours in advance and refrigerated.