Menswear goes loose and easy on NY fashion runways
NEW YORK (Reuters) - If the latest in men's fashion on display this week in New York is any indication, men should have lots of free time, attend chic parties and dabble in arty jobs where they can wear whatever they want.
Baggy shirts, wrinkled T-shirts, campus-throwback sweaters and boat shoes ruled at New York's nascent Mens Runway. The two-day event is designed to give menswear a spotlight rather than getting lost in the frenzy of womenswear shows that dominate New York's spring and fall Fashion Week.
The looks at Mens Runway were aimed at people who aspire to a sophisticated, casual look and lifestyle but don't necessarily have one, fashion experts said.
The looks bear little relation to a real world laden with rising prices, job insecurity or weighty debt, they added.
"It's the way men want to be, rather than need to be," said Candace Corlett, president of WSL Strategic Retail retail experts. "It's just like women. In fashion, they want to be much more glamorous than they are or need to be.
"While most men may be wearing suits or jackets to work and paving the driveway on weekends, for one brief moment they want to be in designer leisure wear," she said.
Toying with those aspirations, Conference of Birds designer Andrew Holden tossed together casual, business and formal in relaxed layers.
He topped pajama-style trousers with a loosened bow tie and overcoat and mixed tuxedo shirts with suit jackets and shorts.
Shirts were only half-tucked by New York-based label Nicholas K, which went outdoorsy, with rolled-up denim shorts, canvas jackets, ponchos and artfully knotted scarves.
'CASUAL FRIDAYS ARE GONE'
Charles G Bailey men's collection opted for a collegiate look, with V-neck sweaters tucked into shorts, muted plaids and bowling shirts with contrasting cuffs and collars.
Nary a suit was to be found, nor a sock in sight.
While the lines were very casual, they were realistic, wearable and marketable, said Robert Burke, head of luxury consultants Robert Burke Associates.
"Difficult economic times have made for more realistic and more sellable clothes," Burke said. "There was a great deal here for buyers to put into stores."
David Wolfe, creative director at Doneger Group retail consultants, was not convinced and said he fears some designers are missing the mark.
"For fashion to be successful, it has to be a reflection of the society that wears it," he said. "The things that are selling very well are not cutting-edge, casual sloppy stuff."
Tailored, dressier menswear is selling well, a la the popular "Mad Men" stylized series about the advertising industry on AMC cable television, Wolfe said.
"Casual Friday has come and gone," he said.
Mens Runway kicked off with four shows in January, and this round, showing looks for Spring 09, featured six shows on Monday and Tuesday. Other designers showing were Orthodox, Canada's Obakki and Andrew Buckler.
(Editing by Philip Barbara)
