Travel Postcard: 48 hours in Yogyakarta

By Mita Valina Liem

YOGYAKARTA, Indonesia (Reuters Life!) - Got 48 hours to explore Yogyakarta, the cultural heart of Java? Reuters correspondents with local knowledge give tips on how to get the best from one of Indonesia's most vibrant cities.

FRIDAY

6 p.m. - Tuck into a delicious nasi goreng, or Indonesian fried rice, at the charming little Via Via cafe as a local band plays foot-tapping jazz in the background. Have a cup of robust Javanese coffee and don't forget to check out the notice-board for information on special batik lessons. Book now for Saturday or Sunday.

Public transportation isn't great in Yogyakarta so hire a car and driver for the next two days.

SATURDAY

5 a.m. - Fight that urge to lie in late and see the sun rise at Borobudur temple, the world's biggest Buddhist temple that rises from the Central Java plains, about an hour's drive from Yogyakarta.

If you want to avoid being harassed by souvenir shop owners and tourist guides, use the Manohara hotel entrance. A short audio-visual show prepares you for the magnificent monument topped with stupas and hundreds of reliefs depicting Buddhist thought and the life of Buddha.

9 a.m. Give your aching feet a rest over breakfast at the tranquil Amanjiwo resort, nestled between grand limestone hills and four volcanoes. Walk up the steps of the bell-shaped rotunda to enjoy a sumptuous breakfast in the luxurious boutique resort's terrace cafe overlooking Borobudur.

10.30 a.m. - Drive past emerald-green paddy fields back into the heart of Yogyakarta and explore the 200-year-old palace complex, known as the Kraton.

Wander through its performance pavilions, or pendopos, and stop to listen to traditional gamelan musicians before you enter the museum galleries to look at old photographs and other royal paraphernalia.

The palace, built in 1790, also houses a collection of ancient Javanese daggers called Keris (Javanese dagger) and horse-drawn chariots.

1.00 p.m. - Not far from the Kraton is a restaurant built in the traditional Javanese style known as Bale Raos that sells the sultan of Yogyakarta's favorite dishes. Be warned: typical Yogyakarta cuisine liberally uses palm sugar in everything from chicken dishes to dessert.

2.30 p.m. - For the not so faint-hearted, a trip to the nearby bird market is a must-do. Though called a bird market, it's more of a pet market: apart from a huge collection of exotic multi-colored birds, you also find rabbits, puppies, owls and even bats. It may not be the most exotic tourist spot, but it gives you a peep into Indonesia and its passion for birds.

3 p.m. - Need a break from the tropical heat? Drive to Silver Town, or Kota Gede, for a wander through the little alleys packed with typical filigree silver jewelry and a leisurely coffee at Omah Dhuwur, a restaurant in a 150-year-old colonial mansion that serves both traditional and international cuisine. Tom's Silver has a workshop where visitors can see a silversmith at work.

7 p.m. - Spend the evening at dinner, watching a performance of the Hindu epic Ramayana at the Purawisata open air theatre. The Javanese dance performance tells the story of the abduction of Hindu goddess Shinta and her rescue by the monkey god Hanuman and his army.