Gaucho: Argentine beef and the "New York" approach

By Mike Buonaiuto

LONDON (Reuters Life!) - The cream leather chair was extremely comfortable, the spacious glass tables glistened and cow skins hung on black walls under gleaming chandeliers.

The whole place screamed class and Argentinean beef.

Gaucho, a small chain of 11 Argentinean-themed restaurants in London has been serving up the beef, the ceviches, chorizo and the rich wines of the Latin American country in the British capital for 12 years.

Their latest restaurant in London's bustling O2 entertainment centre on the banks of the River Thames has only opened recently, but boasts a wine-tasting boutique, a VIP suite, private dining and a balcony lounge for those who come to eat, party and see top acts performing in the O2 such as Stevie Wonder, Leonard Cohen or Nickelback.

"World class food and then a world class show," said Martin Williams, operations manager at Gaucho's O2 incarnation. "Gaucho embraces the coolness and the sexiness of Argentina and brings it to the heart of London."

Williams said honesty was the simple formula for keeping Gaucho from becoming pretentious and satisfying guests with a personal attention that mixes food, atmosphere and service.

"We take the New York approach...We never take our guests for granted," he said. "If you get the experience right you don't have to worry about the money because it will come."

Wines are stacked high in the tasting room where guests can blend their own drinks. Upstairs dance floors and a balcony for private parties await, while across the way stands the O2 arena, where Gaucho VIP guests can have their own box for shows.

But Gaucho also tempers the luxury aspect with rustic photographs on its walls of the villagers and people who work in the wine-making towns of Argentina.

And then there's the beef, of which Williams and his staff are obviously proud.

"Argentinean cows are feed on grass not grain," he said. "As a result the beef is much more tender and juicy. A Gaucho is an Argentinean cowboy. He spends his life with the cattle moving them along to fresh pastures."

Williams said the ethos of Gaucho was to embrace the food and tells a little anecdote about how U.S. comic actor Will Farrell's received some unexpected foodie tuition while trying to shake the paparazzi by exiting through his kitchens.

"He ended up having a 15-minute lesson in cooking beef to perfection," Williams said.

He argues that although Gaucho is a small chain, it tries to avoid the pitfalls of sameness in each restaurant.

"Each venue is very different in style and atmosphere," he said. "The only thing they have in common is the food."