Artisan food and wine has variable human touch

By Jon Hurdle

PHILADELPHIA (Reuters Life!) - When it comes to ordering the world's best beer, wine and cheese, Jon Myerow doesn't mind if the taste isn't always the same or if the products arrive late - in fact he's more comfortable that way.

The founder and co-owner of two Philadelphia restaurants called Tria - specializing in the trio of fine foods - is a champion of "artisan" food and wine, which is typically made in small quantities by people who are passionate about what they do and occasionally overlook mundane considerations like delivery deadlines.

Myerow serves American and imported wines, beers and cheeses from producers that he and his staff know personally, or who are known to importers who are just as committed to what they do as are the makers themselves.

It's not that Myerow automatically rejects food and wine from major producers, they are just less likely to have the character of products made by people rather than corporations, he said.

He cited a man in Ocean Township, N.J. who quit his job to become a brewer in a one-room store because he loved making beer.

"This is handmade from the best ingredients by a guy who loves what he does," Myerow explained.

Another of his suppliers, a California brewer, couldn't supply a shipment on time because he had forgotten to order the bottles.

"Often, it doesn't show up," he said. "We expect stuff not to happen."