Travel Postcard: 48 hours in Seoul

SEOUL, April 27 (Reuters Life!) - This city of 10 million people can seem relentlessly modern but head north of the Han River to experience Seoul's color. Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors get the most from a weekend in South Korea's capital:

FRIDAY

8 p.m. - Dine at Hongdae Byukdoljib (telephone: 02-333-5892), in the art school district of Hong-ik University (also known as Hongdae), offers the popular South Korean dishes of grilled beef and pork, complemented with the national liquor soju, but its wide, tiled tables and convivial mood provide more personality than the usual grill places.

10 p.m. - Retro lounge Liquid (telephone: 02-333-8812), also in Hongdae, is very laid back, but a DJ keeps things lively yet relaxed enough so that you can actually carry on a conversation.

SATURDAY

11:30 a.m. - Head back to Hongdae for brunch at D'Avant (www.d-avant.com), a stylish cafe with some of the best pancakes and waffles in town which start at 5,000 won ($5.39).

1 p.m. - Here's how to stay hip on a budget: the Hope Market, held on Saturdays in a playground in Hongdae, is where art students show off their creations. Handpainted household goods, jewellery, printed t-shirts and pop art are for sale at very reasonable prices.

2 p.m. - Relax in a jjimjilbang, saunas that offer more than just hot water. The 24-hour Harimgak Sauna (www.harimgaksauna.com) in Pyeongchangdong is famous for hauling out red-hot rocks in on a conveyor belt, which radiates a heat so intense that it's difficult to sit even a meter away. You can also take a nap in the upstairs cove, hang out in the TV room or soak in the men's and women's saunas. Entrance fee is 5,000 won; t-shirt and shorts rental is an additional 5,000 won.

5 p.m. - Head to Myeongdong, a shopping district popular with the Japanese for its youthful fashions. This is also the centre of Korean kitsch, with tables full of mugs, t-shirts and even clocks featuring your favorite South Korean actor.

7 p.m. - Andong Bongga Jjimdak (www.bongga.co.kr) in Myeongdong has no English menu but serves only one thing: jjimdak, chicken braised in soy sauce and chilies, served with glass noodles, potatoes and onions. One chicken is 20,000 won, easily enough for two. You'll need rice as a side to counter the effect of the chilies.

9 p.m. - The expatriate neighborhood of Itaewon has outgrown its seedy roots as a playground for U.S. soldiers, with Embassy Lounge (telephone: 02-795-1533) as the latest swank addition, with a dance floor that fills up the later it gets.

SUNDAY

11 a.m. - Tired of barbecue? Rocky Mountain Tavern (www.rockymountaintavern.com) in Itaewon offers an old-fashioned truck-stop breakfast: bacon, eggs, hash browns, toast and coffee for 7,000 won. For homesick Canadians, it's probably the only place in Seoul where you can find hockey on

TV.

1:30 p.m. - Stay hidden in the centre of Seoul: Changdeokgung (Changdeok Palace), is home to the Secret Garden, a UNESCO heritage site known for its preservation of Joseon Dynasty architecture. The only way to access the garden, a favorite of kings, is through a group tour (3,000 won), with English-speaking guides offered at 11 a.m. and 3:30 p.m.

3 p.m. - The Changgyeonggung (Changgyeon Palace), right next door to the Secret Garden, is open to the public, with a 1,000 won admission. It's not the most historic of Seoul's palaces, but it is the prettiest so you'll see many families there.