| NEW YORK, Sept 6
NEW YORK, Sept 6 With tailored suits, intricate
knits and meticulously hand-dyed fabrics, Argentine designers
displaying their Spring 2014 collections at New York Fashion
Week on Friday showed the South American nation's fashion
industry is flourishing.
The seven Buenos Aires-based designers chosen to represent
Argentine fashion ranged from Romina Reinoso, 25, showing the
first collection of her label Tenaz, to Fabian Zitta, who has
created costumes for TV and films, and industry veteran Viviana
"I'm starting here is New York, which is amazing," said
Reinoso, whose simple, elegant collection featured a
hand-printed beaded jumpsuit and jacket in muted colors, pleated
trousers and a silk, backless copper-colored gown.
"I like to accentuate the woman's body but I don't want her
to be uncomfortable," she added in an interview before the show.
Zitta, who will be opening a showroom in New York in six
months, used laser cut, layered patterns in vinyl on a shoulder
overlay and belt to give a three-dimensional effect to a white
organza gown and on a cropped jacket in his collection inspired
by the buildings of Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid.
He paired his designs, mainly in white apart from two yellow
gowns, with handmade shoes and accessories.
For designer Mariana Dappiano, the textiles, all of which
she designs herself, come first and the styles follow.
"The first thing I need to think about is patterns, without
that I can't do anything," said Dappiano, who featured silks and
chiffons in patterned prints in blues, greens and whites in
flowing dresses and gowns.
Fabric and color are also starting points for Uchitel. All
the designs in her collection, which included a gray and beige
silk mini-dress, long gray silk dress and a cream silk gown with
black lines on the bodice and along the hem, are hand dyed.
Natural, raw silk, she said, is her favorite fabric because
it has a special way of absorbing and reflecting the dyes she
"It is a lot of work but I am passionate about it," she
RAW MATERIALS AND ANCIENT TECHNIQUES
Whether they are well established or just staring out, all
the designers selected for the government-sponsored program see
New York Fashion Week as a window to a wider audience and
"The main issue to bring the designers here is to promote
the talent and the creativity of the designers and to put them
together under the umbrella of Argentina as a way to promote our
country," Argentine Ambassador Jose Luis Perez Gabilondo said
before the show.
It was the first show in New York for knitwear designer
Agostina Bianchi who worked with Toba, an indigenous group in
northern Argentina, incorporating their weaving techniques in
the collection inspired by the idea of transformation.
She showed a knitted swimsuit, hand-knitted pants with a
sleeveless blouse with fringed pockets and a long multicolored
dress in brown, orange and beige in light cottons, viscose and
rayon in the designs that focused on softness and comfort.
Marcelo Giacobbe, 30, found the impetus for his feminine
collection in the century-old Nereids Fountain in Buenos Aires,
where Argentine artist Lola Mora depicts the birth of Venus. He
showed a ruffled white gown with rounded glass pieces sewn on
the fabric, a brown laser-cut Italian leather dress and a silver
"My work is a blend between the feminine and masculine and
how to make a material that is rough and tough as soft as lace,"
Daniela Sartori also mixed male and female elements in her
collection of stylish black and cream pants with a pleated
cropped top or vest and a long cream gown over a white T-shirt
that she described as "classic, deconstructed tailoring."
(Editing by Lisa Shumaker)