| NEW YORK, Sept 9
NEW YORK, Sept 9 Menswear at New York Fashion
Week played it safe with colors, sticking to pared-down
neutrals, but styles and cuts ran the gamut from classic
sportswear to ethereal androgyny.
Often overlooked at the bi-annual extravaganza of mostly
womenswear, menswear even stole some looks from the women's
shows in New York, where Duckie Brown put slim knee-length
skirts over mens' trousers and lace at the cuffs and hem of a
mens' black collarless jacket.
The adventurous collection by New York-based Steven Cox
and Daniel Silver toyed with the boundaries between masculine
and feminine as well with what they called a "white long halter
sweatshirt." It resembled a dress, albeit on a male model's
Nevertheless, most of the Duckie Brown collection, nearly
all in plain black, white, navy and khaki, was staunchly
utilitarian, ascetic and at times seemed pointedly unflattering.
Silhouettes were stridently awkward and boxy, as in plain
polo tops with gaping sleeves, a long white jacket that could
have served as a lab coat and a jute apron stamped with black
printing like a sack of coffee beans.
Nautica's Black Sail menswear line was a more conventional
mix of unambiguously rugged anoraks, windbreakers, hooded tops
and crew-neck sweaters.
Shorts of nylon and shiny rubberized cotton were snugly cut
close to the thighs, and the sweaters were mostly Nautica's
trademark chunky cable knits.
The palette was neutral - blues, whites, blacks and grays -
brightened with an occasional solid block of dazzling yellow or
South Korean designer Son Jung Wan employed what she called
the "chalky whites and earth tone colors of the sun-drenched
Sahara Desert" in her menswear collection.
She tweaked the imagination with peek-through, loose-knit
sweaters, a perforated leather vest and sheer fabric held
together with metal beading that resembled staples.
Richard Chai's menswear featured casual, loosely tailored
suits in seersucker cotton, some with exaggeratedly wide-leg
Again, his collection was largely monochromatic, with a
restrained use of plaid and stripes. The only vivid color
passing muster for him this season was a rich, rusty cognac used
in a twill cotton, single-breasted blazer with narrow lapels,
paired with matching Bermuda shorts.
Of broadest appeal might be his collarless, snug leather
motorcycle jackets, classically shaped but with distinctive
While others were cautious with their palettes, Kenneth Cole
departed from his signature black and white. In a collection
inspired by 1980s Harlem chic, Cole showed menswear in
bright orange and vivid greens.
(Additional reporting by Barbara Goldberg and Chris Michaud,
Editing by Ellen Wulfhorst and Nick Zieminski)