| NEW YORK, June 10
NEW YORK, June 10 Texas is known for many
things: cowboys and cattle, oil and gas wells, the Alamo and a
passion for college football. But wine?
Although Spanish missionaries planted vines in what is now
Texas in the 1600s, the state dates its modern wine production
only as far back as the 1970s.
Prohibition in the 1920s wiped out the U.S. industry and
even today most of the Lone Star state's 254 counties have
so-called "dry" laws, that restrict the consumption and sale of
"Texas is still a wine region in its infancy and it is still
a region that is determining what its best foot forward might
be," said Devon Broglie, a master sommelier who helps select
wines for Whole Foods Market Inc, the largest natural
and organic grocery chain in the United States.
Texas has about 273 wineries and Austin-based Broglie said
Whole Foods sells wine from about 33 of them in their stores in
Texas. Although the industry is still young, it is likely to
flourish as its wines become better known outside the state.
Like most other wine regions, Texas began by offering
Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, the world's best-selling
white and red varietals. But its vintners have discovered that
other varietals, such as those from France's Rhone region, do
much better in the climate.
Pedernales Cellars' David Kuhlken said the rugged Texas Hill
Country, which sprawls over central and south Texas,"is more
Mediterranean than one might think." Its creeks and rivers have
carved into the deep layers of limestone and created a wide
variation in soil types where grapes are grown.
Ed Hellman, a professor at Texas Tech University, said the
ability to have Rhone varietals thrive comes just as wine
consumers are willing to try something other than the usual
Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay.
Kuhlken said Texans are not trying to find a region to
emulate because the region is so unlike other wine-growing
"Ultimately, we're trying to find what is a good Texas wine
and which varietals will do this," he added.
Pedernales produces about 10,000 cases of wine annually and
offers various Rhone blends, including the classic, Grenache,
Syrah and Mourvedre, or GSM as it is called in the trade.
Rhone wine maker Frédéric Lavau, who was in New York last
week and tasted the Pedernales GSM, said he found Texas wine
"Because when I smell it, for me, it's very Syrah-driven, so
you have that kind of minty character that you can find in the
northern Rhone," said Lavau, whose family has been making wines
since the 19th century.
"But with Rhone, it's always a question of blends. If I were
blending the GSM from Texas with my Rhone knowledge, I would not
have been doing it the same way. The mouth and the nose are
But Broglie was undeterred by the comments.
"The total production of Texas wine is really consumed in
Texas," he said.
(Editing by Jonathan Oatis)