Bhutanese face subtle choices in first election

By Simon Denyer

PUNAKHA, Bhutan (Reuters) - The people of Bhutan face some subtle choices in their first parliamentary elections on Monday, choices that underline the changes democracy is bringing to this traditional Himalayan kingdom.

The biggest decision of all was imposed on the mainly Buddhist Bhutanese -- their fourth king, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, went against the popular will by introducing democracy after a century of royal rule.

Democracy's adversarial nature has left many people uncomfortable in a land long known as the last Himalayan Shangri-la, but some are gradually getting used to the idea of deciding for themselves.

"Everyone is very sad to see the king stand down," said 42-year-old businessman Kinley Penjor. "We love all our kings."

"But I think democracy will be good. In the past if you went to a minister about your problems -- well there is always a little bit of corruption, even in Bhutan, or it might be decided according to his mood.

"Now we can elect the best candidates."

In 1960, Bhutan was a feudal, mediaeval place with no roads and practically no schools or hospitals. Today education and healthcare are free and widely available, most villages have access to safe drinking water and electricity, and life expectancy has risen to 66 years from less than 40.

A study in 2006 ranked it as the eighth happiest country in the world. Most people credit royal rule.

"The king is like Buddha," said 42-year-old Wangmo, as she sold puffed rice in a weekly market in the central Bhutanese village of Khuruthang.

"He has brought lots of development, and under the king we have lived so many years peacefully. I don't know how democracy is going to help."

As a result, change will be gradual. Just two parties have been allowed to compete in the elections, both led by men from the king's trusted inner circle, both former prime ministers under royal rule.

Their parties' manifestoes are almost identical, both based on "His Majesty's vision" of gross national happiness, the idea that economic growth be balanced by respect for traditions and the environment. Both stress continuity above all else.

"It is a tough choice," said Penjor. "Both leaders are good men."

"WE ARE NOT ROYALTY"

On one side stands 58-year-old Sangay Ngedup, who visited much of the country when he served various terms as agriculture, health and education ministers.