Reclusive Bhutan uneasy as Internet pushes edge

By Simon Denyer

THIMPU (Reuters) - As the reclusive Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan opens up gradually to the outside world and embraces democracy, it is finding the freedoms of the Internet both exciting and dangerous.

The Internet came to Bhutan along with television just nine years ago. In a country where open criticism of the elite is almost unheard of, the anonymity of the Web is giving a few people the chance to speak their minds without fear.

"We shiver in front of the Lyonpos (ministers) or the other High Ups and fail to utter anything because of our so-called rich culture," one contributor known as coolmandala wrote on the state-owned newspaper Kuensel's popular discussion forum at www.kuenselonline.com.

"Do you still want to live in fear? If not, this is what democracy is all about."

Bhutan held its first ever parliamentary elections on Monday, to end a century of royal rule.

But not many people on Kuensel's site appear to agree with coolmandala. Many talk of the "divine mind" of the country's fourth king, and his wise, honest and compassionate ministers.

Yet there is no doubt times are changing in the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

"Of all the different media, the internet has pushed the boundaries faster," said Kinley Dorji, Kuensel's managing director. "It seems to be because of the anonymity."

But it is also proving a headache for the authorities, who say they are committed to a free press, but in practice find even Bhutan's very mild-mannered newspapers hard to cope with.

The government decided last year to block access to a foreign-hosted Web site, www.bhutantimes.com, for a bitter attack on the king's uncle, Sangay Ngedup, whose political party was soundly defeated in Monday's elections.

"We have a policy to create a vibrant media," said Kezang, head of the media department of Bhutan's Ministry of Information and Communications, who only uses one name.

"But we are very cautious about what content from outside might do to our society."

DON'T MENTION REFUGEES

There are two main taboos inside Bhutan. No criticism of the king is allowed. And no mention of national security issues -- in other words no criticism of government policy towards the ethnic Nepali, mainly Hindu minority.

Around 100,000 ethnic Nepali refugees live in camps inside Nepal. They were forced out of Bhutan in 1990 after protesting against discrimination and in favor of democracy.