WITNESS: In Kenya, watching as tribalism takes over

David Lewis has reported for Reuters from Africa since 2004, originally as correspondent in the Democratic Republic of Congo and as a freelance journalist since 2007. Born in Kenya but British by nationality, he grew up in several African countries and has worked as a journalist in Africa since 2001. In the following story he recounts his experiences traveling around Kenya's Rift Valley during the post-election violence.

By David Lewis

NAIVASHA, Kenya (Reuters) - The drive into Kenya's Rift Valley is a breathtaking climb up over the escarpment followed by a precarious, winding descent down into Naivasha.

Set amid the yellow fever-trees on the shore of a lake brimming with wildlife, Naivasha lures tourists for fishing and bird-watching and farms there churn out tonnes of flowers and vegetables for Europe every day.

I grew up in Kenya and when I was a child this was the first stop on a long bumpy journey to our home on Lake Baringo, in Kenya's arid north. We would have a quick drink here and maybe grab a samosa at La Belle Inn or stretch our legs near the lake.

But this year, just outside the Naivasha country club's gates, I was watching about 1,000 Kikuyu youth wield clubs and machetes on their third day of taunting and attacking hundreds of non-Kikuyus. They had already torched most of the houses.

This was revenge for attacks on fellow Kikuyus after President Mwai Kibaki was declared the victor of a December 27 election which the opposition says was rigged.

It had gone beyond politics. The day before, mobs set up road blocks and were stopping buses, checking the identity cards of those on board and beating them according to their tribe.

Back for the first time in years -- having been called in from neighboring Uganda to help out as I speak a little Swahili -- I was shocked.