Socialism and consumerism rub shoulders in Tripoli

By Tom Pfeiffer

TRIPOLI (Reuters) - As economic barriers fall between Libya and the West, a boom-town atmosphere fed by the novelty of consumer culture has gripped its capital Tripoli.

Hotel rooms are in short supply as foreigners flock to the Mediterranean port city to seal business deals made possible by the OPEC member country's recovery from years of sanctions.

As the sun sets and a cool breeze wafts through shady colonial-era arcades, Tripolitans stroll past shops laden with a growing array of imported goods, from veiled Barbie dolls to England football shirts, designer handbags and silk scarves.

According to the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development, foreign direct investment into Libya rose to $2.5 billion in 2007 after a slow recovery since 2004, the year after Libya gave up its weapons of mass destruction program.

That put it on a par for inflows with Morocco and Sudan in Africa.

Near Green Square's glaring floodlights and posters celebrating 39 years of Muammar Gaddafi's Islamic socialist revolution, businessmen with the latest laptops discuss investment projects over Italian coffee and fruit smoothies.

As the number of flights to Tripoli grows, the airport's car park has overflown into a field nearby. A $2 billion project to increase passenger capacity more than sixfold is under way.

"If you don't visit a particular area for a while it becomes hardly recognizable," said Libyan singer-songwriter Ahmed Fakroun. "You ask yourself: "When did all this happen?'"

With unemployment estimated by the U.S. embassy to run at a minimum of 30 percent in Libya as a whole, the laid-back people of Tripoli appear unfazed by the level of activity and growing number of foreign visitors.

The most significant arrival by far was that of U.S. Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice, whose September trip was intended to end decades of enmity.

It raised hopes that Libya is on its way back into the international mainstream after years when it was seen in the West as a supporter of terrorism. To judge by the atmosphere in Tripoli, the shift to modernity is well rooted.

WHEEL SPINS AND NEW HOTELS

A tailback of BMWs and sport-utility vehicles forms along wealthy Ben Achour Street and young male drivers show off their powerful engines with screeching wheel-spins that send up plumes of smoke.

The noise fails to distract a group of old men playing draughts over a water pipe of tobacco.

Billboards across town advertise towering hotel developments. French perfume and Italian designer clothing stores have appeared to cater for a new class of wealthy, sophisticated Libyan with money to burn.